This Father’s Day, treat dad to a king’s barbecue brunch at Accents
Restaurant in the Sutton Place Hotel.
The brunch will be expertly crafted by executive chef Theo Ioannou
(pronounced “Ee-wahn-oo”), who has cooked a private dinner at
Kensington Palace for Prince Andrew, Prince Edward and Princess
Sophie Rhys-Jones. He also prepared deluxe meals for 1,200 guests on
the Queen Elizabeth 2.
Chef Ioannou, born in Cyprus and raised in London, comes from a
family of restaurant owners and maitre-d’s. His grandfather owned a
flambe restaurant at Harrod’s. Yet Ioannou, 39, learned to cook
because his mother couldn’t.
“It was terrible,” Ioannou said with a laugh. “It could take her
three days to roast a turkey.”
Ioannou enrolled in a prestigious culinary school in Cyprus at 16,
and then enjoyed a successful career cooking in London. He’s also
worked at gastronomically celebrated Michelin-rated restaurants in
London.
“It’s without a doubt the culinary capital of the world,” Ioannou
said of London.
Gourmet Magazine agrees with him. In its March issue dedicated to
London’s culinary scene, editor Ruth Reichl said emphatically, “At
this moment, London is the world’s best place to eat.”
Ioannou left London four years ago to live in Southern California
to be near his wife’s family.
Ioannou said kitchens in Europe and in Orange County have entirely
different atmospheres.
“There’s a ruthless energy in London -- knives, plates and hot oil
are thrown in kitchens,” Ioannou said. “There’s a lot of verbal
abuse.”
Yet Ioannou misses London for its access to superior varieties of
fresh produce flown in daily from Holland, Greece, Spain and Italy --
first-press olive oils, Devon cream and the little pockets of
multicultural restaurants and specialty food stores.
In Orange County, the camaraderie and cool temperaments in Newport
Beach are refreshing. He’s impressed by varieties of fresh seafood,
some he’s never even seen. He enjoys creating dishes from new
discoveries.
“This halibut is the best in the world,” Ioannou said. “The tuna,
lobster and swordfish are excellent, and the cherrystone clams
amazing.”
At Accents, Ioannou prepares a few dishes from his London
background. When in season, he serves rosemary lamb canon (the best
cut of the lamb) with white bean cassoulet; zucchini and wild
mushroom galette (a round flat pastry); and steamed turbo with
scallop and lobster mousse and lemon saffron nage.
Ioannou doesn’t take credit for implementing Sutton Place’s
barbecue brunch. It’s the hotel’s 15-year tradition. He does add
expertise and love for international flavors.
The patio sizzles during brunch on the atrium garden of Accents
Restaurant. Barbecue choices include Angus beef sirloin, San Luis
gourmet sausages, baby back ribs, free-range chicken and fresh
seafood.
Inside, guests can enjoy an international seafood display of
Washington state oysters, jumbo shrimp, crab legs, New Zealand
mussels, poached salmon and sushi. Families can also select from a
steamship of beef, as well as breakfast crowd pleasers like custom
omelets, waffles and eggs Benedict.
Dessert choices include imported and domestic cheeses, as well as
a decadent display of petit fours, truffles, ice cream bars and
chocolate fondue.
Brunch is served from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Prices are $49 for
adults, including complimentary house champagne; $20 per child ages 6
to 11; and no charge for children 5 and under.
Accents won three prestigious culinary awards for its cuisine,
service and wine list from the Southern California Restaurant Writers
Assn.
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